PREPARATION OF POWDER ROUGE

OBJECTIVES:

1.       To formulate dry powder rouge.

2.       To study the factor affecting color shading in powder rouge.

3.       To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product.

INTRODUCTION:

       Rouges were used to colour the lips in early days which becoming more popular in the use of stick rouge or lipstick. However, nowadays rouge is a cosmetics used to apply color to the cheeks to create a more healthy appearance on the skin. Powder rouges did not differ from face powder apart from being more highly coloured and opaque. This preparation requires higher concentrations of dyes and pigments along with opacifiers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Rouge is used to simulate a natural glow and must look subtle. Modern rouge preparations come in the forms of liquid, cream and dry solids forms.

Powder rouge has the advantage of being more readily carried about, but the cream is much more permanent in result and, if artistically used, defies detection. Powder rouges are usually rubbed on the skin with a rouge cloth or a bit of soft flannel. By applying a neutral shade of rouge like beige for example, directly underneath the cheek bone will soften the cheek bone make it less obvious. If applied before the face powder, the result is heightened.

Although cream rouge looks very similar to a paste rouge and shows little distinction between the cream rouges are emulsions contain water. They were made in either oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion. As they contained water, cream rouges were susceptible to evaporation as well as bacterial and fungal degradation. However, cream or gel rouge has better staying power, while powder rouge comes in larger variety of shades. Cream rouges are great for women who have drier skin since the humectants provide a hydrating benefit.

APPARATUS:       

Spatula, weighing boat, mortar and pestle

INGREDIENTS:

Kaolin, Talc, Magnesium stereate, Zinc oxide, Rice starch, Magnesium carbonate, Colorant (), Titanium dioxide as much as is sufficient

PROCEDURE:

1)      60g of the basic powder formulation without colouring agent (PO) was prepared.

2)      Another 60g of a powder rouge containing 4% of an insoluble red colouring agent (P4) was prepared.

3)      4 other powder rouge preparations were prepared by diluting the 4% powder rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colour.

4)      The suggested concentration of colouring agent was 0.5 - 4%

FORMULATIONS:

Basic powder formulation		60g of PO (0%)	60g of P4 (4%)
Kaolin	16%	9.6g	9.6g
Talc	48%	28.8g	28.8g
Magnesium stearate	6%	3.6g	3.6g
Zinc Oxide	5%	3.0g	3.0g
Rice starch	10%	6.0g	6.0g
Magnesium carbonate	5%	3.0g	3.0g
Colorant (Colorona magenta)	4%	-	2.4g
Titanium dioxide q.s ad	100%	6g	3.6g

Code	Colorant (%)	Amount of P4	Amount of PO	Total amount of rouge (g)
P1	0.5	2.5	17.5	20
P2	1	5	15	20
P3	2	10	10	20
P4	3	15	5	20
P5	4	20	-	20
	Total (g)	52.5	47.5

STABILITY TESTING:

1)      All the remaining products were placed in one warm and sunny position.

2)      After 4 weeks, the products were evaluated.

Stability Testing

The products are placed in warm and sunny position. Then, the products are evaluated after 4 weeks.

1. Powder rouge when exposed to light

Code	Change in colour	Change Separation	Flow properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

      2. Powder rouge in the dark

Code	Change in colour	Change Separation	Flow properties
P1	No	No	Good
P2	No	No	Good
P3	No	No	Good
P4	No	No	Good
P5	No	No	Good

3. Powder rouge when test on cheek

Code	Duration of Application	Result
P1	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P2	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P3	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P4	6 hours	No irritation, smooth
P5	6 hours	No irritation, smooth

DISCUSSION:

In preparation of powder rouge, some important ingredients are needed such as kaolin, talc, and rice starch and magnesium stearate. Kaolin acts as an emollient and drying agent in the powder rouge. Kaolin can also be applied directly to the skin, to dry and soften the skin. Kaolin is a popular ingredient in powder rouge due to its clay texture which provides skincare benefits and also acts as an excellent base. Talc, also known talcum powder, is used primarily as a basis for powders. It is widely used as an active agent and auxiliary agent, with a disinfectant, astringent, anti-itching or cooling effect. Talc is also suitable as a lubricant in powder rouge. Talcum powder is able to absorb moisture, oils, mask odor, and produce an astringent effect with human skin, and thus it is commonly used in powder preparation for external use. Rice starch is used as an excipient, disintegrant or as binder in pharmaceutical products. Starch, a natural polymer, is routinely used as filler, binder and disintegrant in various solid dosage forms. Unique characteristics of rice starch include hypoallergenicity, digestibility, consumer acceptance, bland flavor, small granules, white color, increased freeze– thaw stability of pastes, greater acid resistance, and a wide range of amylose:amylopectin ratios, causing it to have higher demand in pharmaceutical and cosmetics products compared to other excipients.  Magnesium stearate exists as a salt form and it provides lubricating effect for powder products in industry. Magnesium Stearate is used as a dusting addictive and as an anti-caking, binding, thickening and gelling agent. It provides good slip and adhesion to mineral makeup and powder rouge.

            Basic powder formulation without coloring agent is firstly prepared and mixed with another powder rouge containing 4% of insoluble red coloring agent. The powders are mixed with different proportion to get various shades of colors. The higher the concentration of colorant in the formulation, the darker the color of powder observed. 

            Powder rouge is usually compared with cream rouge. Each rouge forms have their own purpose and suitability that can be used in different occasions. Powder rouge works with all skin types, but best suited on oily skin. The densely-packed powder is easier to apply and stay longer on the skin compared to the cream. Powder rouge provides a matte, polished look. Cream blush, on the other hand, is greatly suitable for aging or dry skin. The cream formulas provide hydrating; moisturizing and give a dewy, glowy look on the skin when applied. They’re also really lightweight, which tends to give a more natural flush. However, cream rouge stays for a shorter period compared to powder form. On the other hand, cream and powder rouge can also be applied together, to ensure a natural color on the skin and a long lasting effect. Formulation of powder rouge is mainly made up of powder form, such as kaolin, talc, magnesium stearate and zinc oxide. On the other hand, cream rouge formulation consists of oil and wax, such as cocoa butter, beewax, wool fat and liquid paraffin.

      For the stability test, the powder rouges are stored in different condition; exposed to sunlight and in dark. Few criteria are observed, include the color separation, color change and also the flow properties, changes observed before and after a certain period. After one month, any changes are measured. However as stated in the result, there is no changes in color, flow properties of the powder and no color separation occurs. The presence of light does not really affects the storage and the properties of the powder rouge. The product is relatively stable and there is no change or separation in color due to the fact that there is absence of liquid formulation. In addition, the formulation also contains titanium dioxide which absorbs, reflects, or scatters light (including ultraviolet radiation in light). This shows why the product is protected from deterioration. Besides, magnesium stearate which is a good glidant is also incorporated in the formulation. That is why the powder still has good flow properties even after a month of storage. Glidant is substance that can improve the flow ability of powder.  However, it tested for one month thus precautionary steps are still needed to be done like avoid exposing it to direct sunlight to make sure that the product will not be undergo any chemical or physical changes throughout the usage before the expiring date.

CONCLUSION:

In conclusion, each ingredient play important role in the formulation of powder rouge. In this experiment, different proportion of colorants used to see if there is any different in physical and chemical changes.

REFERENCES:

1.       John Toedt, Darrell Koza, Kathleen Van Cleef-Toedt. 2005. ‘Chemical composition of everyday products’. Greenwood Publishing Group. Page 25-26

2.      Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics. Formulation and evaluation of powder rouge